Jonathan Lachs’ passion for winemaking was sparked by a life-changing tour of Paul Masson’s facility in his hometown, detouring him from a pre-med path at UC Davis. As he delved deeper into the world of enology, he found his calling, making his first wines at just 19 years old. It was also at UC Davis where he met his future partner in life and business, Susan Marks, at a student tasting group. Their chance encounter over a 1980 Chardonnay tasting blossomed into a 38-year love story, with Susan becoming an integral part of Jonathan’s winemaking journey.

Together, they turned their shared dream into reality, establishing Cedarville Vineyard in 1998, where they crafted  small-production wines that showcased their passion for sustainable winemaking. Even after her untimely passing in 2020, Susan’s legacy lives on through the annual “Susan Marie” wine, with proceeds supporting pancreatic cancer research.

Jonathan and Susan were drawn to the Fair Play area in El Dorado County by its untapped potential for producing wines that showcased true varietal character. With limited means, they sought a region where they could afford to establish a vineyard and winery, and Fair Play’s affordable land and promising terroir made it the perfect fit. Undaunted by the challenges of pioneering a new region, they invested in infrastructure while maintaining their day jobs, ultimately producing wines that turned heads. The vineyard’s unique layout, with its elevation changes and decomposed granite soils, presented both opportunities and challenges. The high elevation, over 2500 feet, brings low humidity and intense sun exposure, requiring innovative approaches to grape growing. The soils, meanwhile, impart a distinctive flavor profile, with deep red fruit and dusty white pepper notes. As Jonathan notes, “It requires rethinking the rules established for coastal grape growing,” but the results are well worth the effort.

At Cedarville Vineyard, the winemaking philosophy honors the vineyard’s terroir. With 30-year-old vines, the natural expression shines through. Jonathan accentuates this character by prioritizing proper ripeness, coaxing richness and depth, and using oak judiciously. This approach blends tradition and innovation, resulting in wines that reflect the vineyard’s unique personality and Jonathan’s passion for authentic, refined wines.

Cedarville Vineyard’s Syrah is a true passion project for Jonathan, who has been fascinated by the variety’s potential since the 1990s. Planted in 1994, the vineyard’s Syrah vines initially required careful management to tame their natural vigor, but now yield a balanced 2-3 tons per acre without fruit thinning. Jonathan’s winemaking approach is inspired by the great Syrahs of Cote-Rotie, Hermitage, and other renowned regions, which he has studied through extensive tasting and collecting. He revels in Syrah’s ability to express its site and terroir, and his own wine showcases the varietal’s signature fruitiness and balance. With its unique blend of power and finesse, Cedarville’s Syrah holds its own alongside notable peers from the Sierra Foothills, Rhône Valley, and beyond.

Jonathan’s interest with Priorat wines from Catalonia, Spain, began at Hospice du Rhone in 2000, and he’s been captivated by their unique blend of deep red fruit and tannic structure ever since. His own ‘Turnabout’s Fair Play’ pays homage to Priorat’s traditional Grenache-based blends, incorporating Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon to evoke the iconic style of Clos Mogador. However, Cedarville Vineyard’s version is distinctly Fair Play, with a friendlier, more approachable Grenache character that he likened to “Pinot Noir with guts.” To enhance the blend’s complexity, Jonathan experimented with co-fermentation for the first time, finding it a fun and rewarding process, but not a necessity. The resulting wine is a reflection of Jonathan’s winemaking philosophy: versatile, food-friendly, and perfect for pairing with rich, fatty dishes.

As a former Director on the ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates & Producers) Board of Directors, representing the Sierra Foothills, Jonathan has dedicated himself to showcasing Zinfandel’s unique charm. At Cedarville Vineyard, he leverages the high-elevation terroir (2,500 feet) to optimize Zinfandel’s natural fruitiness and spice, achieving ripeness without succumbing to raisiny flavors. Drawing inspiration from Russian River Zinfandels, he aims to capture Zinfandel’s “pretty side” while maintaining a strong sense of place. The resulting flavor profile is distinct from other California Zinfandels, with a balance of fruit, spice, and structure that sets it apart.

In the Fair Play AVA, a strong sense of community and collaboration thrives among winemakers and grape growers. Cedarville Vineyard, a proud member of the “El Dorado 8”, a trade group dedicated to promoting the region’s quality and potential, notes that “elevation makes a huge difference” in the character of grape varietals. The El Dorado 8’s mission is to showcase the region’s exceptional wines, fearlessly presenting them alongside California’s and the world’s best. Through initiatives like wine tastings and educational events, the group highlights its members’ commitment to quality and distinction. By working together, Fair Play AVA winemakers overcome common challenges and promote their region as the “crown jewel” of the Sierra Foothills. 

Concluding with this year’s harvest, yields are down from 2023 but promising signs of exceptional ripeness, acidity, and flavor profile reign supreme. In the cellar, exciting projects are underway, including a Rosé of Syrah fermentation and estate Grenache and Syrah cold soaks. When not immersed in crush mode, Jonathan is enjoying time with his fiancée, growing family, and tackling the challenge of modernizing Cedarville Vineyard’s sales and online presence. With his characteristic enthusiasm and dedication, Jonathan is poised to take the winery to new heights, solidifying Cedarville Vineyard’s reputation as a premier destination for exceptional, handcrafted wines. As he embraces the opportunities and challenges ahead, one thing is clear: the best is yet to come for this Fair Play pioneer.

The wines featured in the Wine Recommendations section were provided by the winery for the purpose of review. The selection and tasting of these wines were independently conducted. No compensation or incentives were provided for inclusion in the story. As always, the top priority is to provide readers with informative reporting.

Wine Recommendations

2023 Grenache- lets loose a bouquet of red cherry, and pomegranate. On the palate, the wine exudes elegance and poise, with refined licorice flavors and a touch of herbs and spice. The finish is long and refined, with finely textured tannins lending depth and complexity.

2022 Syrah- bursting with an opulent display of blackberry and black pepper. The palate is framed by a firm backbone of black cherry and spice, imbuing the wine with impressive tension and structural cohesion. Tannins are ripe and finely polished with a long and complex finish.

2022 Zinfandel- strawberry and red cherry notes mingle with a judicious hint of spice, supported by soft tannins and vibrant acidity. The finish is impressively persistent, concluding with a lingering echo of succulent fruit flavors

2018 Cabernet Sauvignon- aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry with subtle hints of cedar and spice. On the palate, flavors of dark fruit, tobacco, and earthy undertones meld seamlessly together. 

2022 Viognier- intensely aromatic, unleashing white peach, apricot and honeysuckle with nuances of citrus zest. The palate is crisply defined with pear, green apple followed by a long, clean finish.