How a D.C. Beer Guy Became an Oregon Pinot Noir Pioneer

By Published On: December 2, 2024

Credit: Chris Lindemann

Erin Nuccio’s journey to becoming a renowned winemaker in Oregon’s Willamette Valley was far from straightforward. Growing up in the Washington D.C. area, Nuccio’s early passion for microbrews and artisanal foods was fueled by a family member’s obsession with European imports. While his friends were content with the lightest, cheapest beer they could find, Nuccio was drawn to the complex, often dark brews that sparked a fascination with flavor and craftsmanship.

This curiosity eventually led him to the world of wine, where he landed a job at a wine shop in Arlington, Virginia. As he delved deeper into the industry, Nuccio found himself working in distribution, managing wine shops, and eventually, taking a leap of faith to pursue winemaking in California. However, it was the Willamette Valley that ultimately stole his heart, with its promise of producing restrained, acid-driven Pinot Noirs that aligned with his own winemaking vision.

A chance meeting with Russ Raney of Evesham Wood Winery proved serendipitous, as Nuccio found himself immersed in the art of winemaking under Raney’s guidance. He recalls the invaluable lessons learned during his time at the winery, where instinct and intuition reigned supreme. “We would smell the ferments, taste them, look at them, and touch them,” Nuccio reminisces. “That’s how they were monitored.” This approach not only shaped his winemaking philosophy but also instilled in him a deep respect for the natural process.

Photo of Erin Nuccio. Credit: Alexander Fortson

Today, as the owner of Evesham Wood Winery and the founder of Haden Fig, Nuccio continues to push the boundaries of Oregon Pinot Noir, while staying true to his core values of sustainability, simplicity, and a deep connection to the land. His story is one of passion, perseverance, and a commitment to crafting wines that reflect the unique terroir of the Willamette Valley.

Nuccio balances the legacy of Evesham Wood with the creative freedom of Haden Fig. While both brands share a commitment to organic farming and hands-off winemaking, there are distinct differences in their approaches. Evesham Wood remains deeply rooted in the Eola-Amity Hills, with a focus on precise, elegant wines. In contrast, Haden Fig explores a broader range of vineyards across the Northern Willamette Valley, with a more experimental approach to winemaking. As Nuccio navigates these dual worlds, he remains committed to the core values that have guided him throughout his journey: a passion for sustainability, simplicity, and a deep connection to the land.

This commitment to showcasing the unique characteristics of each vineyard site is reflected in Nuccio’s extensive portfolio of single-vineyard Pinot Noir bottlings. Despite the challenges of managing multiple sites, Nuccio is drawn to the endless variations and surprises that each vintage brings.  His emphasis on terroir-driven winemaking is complemented by his commitment to spontaneous fermentation. A pivotal experiment in 2011, in which he compared inoculated and spontaneous ferments from three different vineyards, convinced him of the significant impact that spontaneous fermentation can have on the final wine. 

For Nuccio, the ultimate goal is to craft wines that capture the unique essence of each growing season. He favors cool, slow-growing seasons, but acknowledges that every vintage presents its own set of challenges. Evesham Wood’s estate vineyard, Le Puits Sec, plays a significant role in shaping the winery’s Pinot Noir profile. This vineyard consistently produces wines with distinct traits, including violet, plum, and sage flavors.   Nuccio’s commitment to elegance and balance is evident in his picking philosophy. He’s often referred to as an “early picker,” but Nuccio prefers to think of it as picking on time. This approach allows him to capture brighter, earlier flavors and achieve a delicate balance of acid and structure. The resulting wines are often described as having a stem-influenced style, although Nuccio reveals that this is actually a result of his meticulous picking philosophy.  

Credit: Haden Nuccio

Nuccio’s Chardonnay style is rooted in the timeless traditions of Burgundy, yet adapted to the unique terroir of the Willamette Valley. His journey with Chardonnay began in 2008, when he produced his first vintage from Mahonia Vineyard. Initially, he sought to create a crisp, oak-free Chardonnay that was the antithesis of the rich, oaky styles prevalent at the time. However, as his philosophy evolved, Nuccio began to experiment with spontaneous fermentation in oak, full malolactic fermentation, and bottling unfined and unfiltered. The result is a Chardonnay that balances electric acidity with complexity and texture derived from oak and lees aging.

Over the next few years, fans of Evesham Wood can expect a renewed emphasis on heritage, including the reintroduction of single-vineyard Pinot Noir bottlings from esteemed sites like Temperance Hill and Mahonia. Meanwhile, Haden Fig will continue to push the boundaries of Oregon Chardonnay. With the recent acquisition of Torres Hill Vineyard, Nuccio aims to maintain the exceptional value and artisanal quality of his wines, including the beloved Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, which proudly conveys the growing season and site for around $30.

As Nuccio reflects upon the most important lesson he’s learned along the way? The power of observation. By trusting his senses and staying attuned to the subtle rhythms of nature, Nuccio continues to craft wines that are at once elegant, expressive, and deeply rooted in the Oregon terroir. As his journey unfolds, one thing is clear: the best things are yet to come.

The wines featured in the Wine Recommendations section were provided by the winery for the purpose of review. The selection and tasting of these wines were independently conducted. No compensation or incentives were provided for inclusion in the story. As always, the top priority is to provide readers with informative reporting.

Wine Recommendations

Credit: Erin Nuccio

Evesham Wood

2022 Pinot Noir, “Le Puits Sec”- vivid notes of black cherry, raspberry, and plum with suggestions of spice, and a touch of earth. The texture is sublime, with a velvety smoothness that belies the wine’s vibrant acidity. The finish unfolds with a stately elegance, revealing subtle mineral nuances that add depth and complexity to this tour-de-force Pinot Noir. 

2022 Pinot Noir, Temperance Hill Vineyard-  this wine’s aromatic profile is a mélange of cherry, raspberry, and blackberry. On the palate, the fruit flavors are decidedly dark and red, including earthy undertones, provide depth and nuance. The texture is a silky mouthfeel that contributes to a seamless drinking experience.

2023 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley – an aromatic profile seducing with ripe cherry, warm spices, and subtle floral notes. The palate balances cherry and strawberry flavors with bright acidity, rendering the wine effortlessly approachable and charming

Haden Fig

2022 Pinot Noir, Freedom Hill Vineyard- a  mosaic of raspberry, strawberry, and passionfruit, elevated by an alluring aromatic profile that showcases dried lavender, and subtle mineral nuances reminiscent of gravel. On the palate a dense, velvety texture supported by refined tannins and a lively acidity that injects dynamism and precision into the wine’s lingering finish.

2022 Juliette Chardonnay- nuanced aromatic profile that brings together apple, lemon and a touch of toasted oak.  On the palate, layered notes of mineral, citrus and nuts.  The finish is long and satisfying, with bright, snappy acidity that lends a sense of vibrancy.

 

About the Author: Joe Campbell