Credit: Viano Vineyards
In 1920, the winds of fortune carried the Viano family from the rugged shores of Alaska to the vibrant heart of California, but not without hardship. After Conrad Viano contracted rheumatic fever, the family sought refuge in Martinez, where the air was drier and the promise of renewal awaited. As they settled into this new land, the undulating terrain stirred memories of the lush vineyards they had left behind in Italy, a bittersweet reminder of home.
The original estate, once the pride of the Kelley family since 1888, became their sanctuary, where Conrad, the second-generation steward, would cultivate not only grapes but a deep-rooted legacy. For generations, the Viano family has toiled together on this land, their hands dedicated to the craft that breathes life into every bottle produced, embodying a story that is as rich and complex as the wines they create.
The Viano vineyard spans approximately 65 acres of dry-farmed, head-trained vines, with Zinfandel taking center stage as the flagship grape. This landscape also hosts significant plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, while the remaining acreage showcases a diverse array of grapes, including Petite Sirah, Sangiovese, French Colombard, and three different types of Muscat grapes, as well as Valdigue. Located near the Carquinez Straits, the vineyard benefits from cooler nighttime temperatures, a distinctive advantage that sets it apart from other regions. According to the Winkler Index, the area’s climate aligns with that of Sonoma and Napa, designated as a Region III degree day zone—perfect for nurturing high-quality grapes.
The soils here are as varied as the grapes themselves, ranging from pure sandy hillside terrain to rich clay and loam in the valley floors, with sandy loam interspersed throughout. The heavier soils are particularly favorable for white varieties, allowing the Viano family to cultivate a well-rounded portfolio of wines.
Credit: Viano Vineyards
At the heart of the Viano estate lies its prized Zinfandel, the oldest vines on the property, originally planted by the Kelley family. To preserve the heritage and flavor profiles that have defined their wines for generations, the Vianos have carefully replaced sections of these original vines with bench-grafted plants, ensuring continuity in taste and quality. What sets their Zinfandel apart is its remarkable versatility; it can be crafted into a range of styles, from refreshing White Zinfandel to rich late-harvest Zinfandel and even Zinfandel Port. This adaptability not only showcases the grape’s character but also reflects the Viano family’s commitment to honoring tradition while exploring new expressions of their beloved variety.
The Viano family’s exploration of Sangiovese began when Barbera fell out of favor, prompting a search for an old-world grape that would honor their Italian heritage. A grower friend in the Santa Maria area, Joe Carrari, introduced them to Sangiovese, and the Vianos recognized its potential as a perfect complement to their Italian lineage. With Joe’s help in sourcing the vines—reportedly direct descendants of the esteemed Brunello vines from Montalcino, Italy. Over the years, they experimented with various thinning techniques, ultimately discovering that removing about one-third to half of the crop was essential for producing a deeper, more flavorful wine. Each vintage is meticulously fermented in small bins, with the grapes hand-punched down twice daily, and then aged for approximately 18 months in Eastern European oak.
The establishment of the Contra Costa AVA marked a pivotal moment for local grape growers, largely driven by John Viano, who was then the president of the growers association. Recognizing the need for unity among the county’s grape growers, John advocated for a collective identity, as only the west side of Contra Costa County was permitted to use San Francisco Bay or Central Coast on their labels. Viano Vineyards has always proudly included Contra Costa County on its labels, aiming to build a respected reputation for the region’s grape varieties. With the AVA now in place, the hope is to attract more wineries to join in this effort, enhancing the recognition of local wines. Yet, challenges remain; establishing a reputation for a particular variety that resonates with consumers is key. Additionally, the AVA will benefit from more brick-and-mortar wineries that can serve as destinations, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the local wine culture and enjoy the rich offerings of the region.
Credit: Viano Vineyards
At Viano Vineyards, every visit begins with a warm welcome from a family member and a friendly canine companion, instantly creating a homey atmosphere. Guests can enjoy tastings in the cozy tasting room or the scenic picnic area overlooking the lush vineyards. With the freedom to select any five wines from their diverse portfolio, visitors embark on a delightful flavor journey.
Summer evenings come alive with local bands, and the highlight of the season is the vibrant Hawaiian Luau, adding a festive touch. The Viano family also participates in off-site events throughout the year to draw more visitors back to their beloved winery.
The wines featured in the Wine Recommendations section were provided by the winery for the purpose of review. The selection and tasting of these wines were independently conducted. No compensation or incentives were provided for inclusion in the story. As always, the top priority is to provide readers with informative reporting.
Wine Recommendations
2018 Sangiovese Riserva (Brunello Clone)- bursts with aromatic intensity, offering ripe raspberry, blackberry, and subtle black pepper nuances. The palate is layered with dark berry flavors, infused with a refined peppery spice. Fine-grained tannins provide structural elegance, yielding to a lengthy, warm finish highlighted by dried fruit undertones. This exceptional wine showcases impressive depth, marrying power and finesse, and underscoring the excellence of Contra Costa terroir.
2018 Valdigue- the nose offers aromas of blackberry, vanilla, and subtle herbal notes reminiscent of green tea. On the palate, cherry, and pomegranate, with hints of spice. The tannins are soft, contributing to a smooth mouthfeel. Overall, a well-balanced wine with a lingering finish.
2019 Zinfandel- showcases the variety’s richness with a deep, saturated ruby red color and enticing aromas of macerated blackberries, black cherries, and spices. The wine’s frame is beautifully proportioned, with vibrant acidity and refined tannins providing seamless support.
2021 Chardonnay Private Stock- aromas of pineapple, mango, and citrus, with hints of vanilla. The palate features flavors of pineapple and mango, complemented by oak, with a creamy texture. The finish is clean, with lingering fruit flavors.
Beneath the Contra Costa Skies: Viano Vineyards’ Journey Through the Seasons
Credit: Viano Vineyards
In 1920, the winds of fortune carried the Viano family from the rugged shores of Alaska to the vibrant heart of California, but not without hardship. After Conrad Viano contracted rheumatic fever, the family sought refuge in Martinez, where the air was drier and the promise of renewal awaited. As they settled into this new land, the undulating terrain stirred memories of the lush vineyards they had left behind in Italy, a bittersweet reminder of home.
The original estate, once the pride of the Kelley family since 1888, became their sanctuary, where Conrad, the second-generation steward, would cultivate not only grapes but a deep-rooted legacy. For generations, the Viano family has toiled together on this land, their hands dedicated to the craft that breathes life into every bottle produced, embodying a story that is as rich and complex as the wines they create.
The Viano vineyard spans approximately 65 acres of dry-farmed, head-trained vines, with Zinfandel taking center stage as the flagship grape. This landscape also hosts significant plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, while the remaining acreage showcases a diverse array of grapes, including Petite Sirah, Sangiovese, French Colombard, and three different types of Muscat grapes, as well as Valdigue. Located near the Carquinez Straits, the vineyard benefits from cooler nighttime temperatures, a distinctive advantage that sets it apart from other regions. According to the Winkler Index, the area’s climate aligns with that of Sonoma and Napa, designated as a Region III degree day zone—perfect for nurturing high-quality grapes.
The soils here are as varied as the grapes themselves, ranging from pure sandy hillside terrain to rich clay and loam in the valley floors, with sandy loam interspersed throughout. The heavier soils are particularly favorable for white varieties, allowing the Viano family to cultivate a well-rounded portfolio of wines.
Credit: Viano Vineyards
At the heart of the Viano estate lies its prized Zinfandel, the oldest vines on the property, originally planted by the Kelley family. To preserve the heritage and flavor profiles that have defined their wines for generations, the Vianos have carefully replaced sections of these original vines with bench-grafted plants, ensuring continuity in taste and quality. What sets their Zinfandel apart is its remarkable versatility; it can be crafted into a range of styles, from refreshing White Zinfandel to rich late-harvest Zinfandel and even Zinfandel Port. This adaptability not only showcases the grape’s character but also reflects the Viano family’s commitment to honoring tradition while exploring new expressions of their beloved variety.
The Viano family’s exploration of Sangiovese began when Barbera fell out of favor, prompting a search for an old-world grape that would honor their Italian heritage. A grower friend in the Santa Maria area, Joe Carrari, introduced them to Sangiovese, and the Vianos recognized its potential as a perfect complement to their Italian lineage. With Joe’s help in sourcing the vines—reportedly direct descendants of the esteemed Brunello vines from Montalcino, Italy. Over the years, they experimented with various thinning techniques, ultimately discovering that removing about one-third to half of the crop was essential for producing a deeper, more flavorful wine. Each vintage is meticulously fermented in small bins, with the grapes hand-punched down twice daily, and then aged for approximately 18 months in Eastern European oak.
The establishment of the Contra Costa AVA marked a pivotal moment for local grape growers, largely driven by John Viano, who was then the president of the growers association. Recognizing the need for unity among the county’s grape growers, John advocated for a collective identity, as only the west side of Contra Costa County was permitted to use San Francisco Bay or Central Coast on their labels. Viano Vineyards has always proudly included Contra Costa County on its labels, aiming to build a respected reputation for the region’s grape varieties. With the AVA now in place, the hope is to attract more wineries to join in this effort, enhancing the recognition of local wines. Yet, challenges remain; establishing a reputation for a particular variety that resonates with consumers is key. Additionally, the AVA will benefit from more brick-and-mortar wineries that can serve as destinations, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the local wine culture and enjoy the rich offerings of the region.
Credit: Viano Vineyards
At Viano Vineyards, every visit begins with a warm welcome from a family member and a friendly canine companion, instantly creating a homey atmosphere. Guests can enjoy tastings in the cozy tasting room or the scenic picnic area overlooking the lush vineyards. With the freedom to select any five wines from their diverse portfolio, visitors embark on a delightful flavor journey.
Summer evenings come alive with local bands, and the highlight of the season is the vibrant Hawaiian Luau, adding a festive touch. The Viano family also participates in off-site events throughout the year to draw more visitors back to their beloved winery.
The wines featured in the Wine Recommendations section were provided by the winery for the purpose of review. The selection and tasting of these wines were independently conducted. No compensation or incentives were provided for inclusion in the story. As always, the top priority is to provide readers with informative reporting.
Wine Recommendations
2018 Sangiovese Riserva (Brunello Clone)- bursts with aromatic intensity, offering ripe raspberry, blackberry, and subtle black pepper nuances. The palate is layered with dark berry flavors, infused with a refined peppery spice. Fine-grained tannins provide structural elegance, yielding to a lengthy, warm finish highlighted by dried fruit undertones. This exceptional wine showcases impressive depth, marrying power and finesse, and underscoring the excellence of Contra Costa terroir.
2018 Valdigue- the nose offers aromas of blackberry, vanilla, and subtle herbal notes reminiscent of green tea. On the palate, cherry, and pomegranate, with hints of spice. The tannins are soft, contributing to a smooth mouthfeel. Overall, a well-balanced wine with a lingering finish.
2019 Zinfandel- showcases the variety’s richness with a deep, saturated ruby red color and enticing aromas of macerated blackberries, black cherries, and spices. The wine’s frame is beautifully proportioned, with vibrant acidity and refined tannins providing seamless support.
2021 Chardonnay Private Stock- aromas of pineapple, mango, and citrus, with hints of vanilla. The palate features flavors of pineapple and mango, complemented by oak, with a creamy texture. The finish is clean, with lingering fruit flavors.
About the Author: Joe Campbell